Saturday, March 26, 2011

23,8 km or 14.8 miles

I have been talking about this Monaco Run thing for a while. For nine weeks or so, I had been alternately training for a half-marathon and being sick, but nevertheless gearing up for a 13-mile race on March 20th. A couple of days before the race, I learned that the course, starting in Ventimiglia, Italy, passing through Menton, France, and ending in Monaco, was actually closer to 15 miles. Yipes. I missed two weeks of training from being sick. I have never run a race before. Am I even athletic in the first place? No.

But my only goal was to finish it within the 2 hour and 45 minute time limit, and I knew I wasn’t going to give up at any point. So, last Sunday, race day, came around. The route was beautiful, along the coast the whole way and mostly flat except for two mountainish hills we had to climb. The people along the way were very supportive and it was a great feeling to get applause and cheers from total strangers, especially as a straggler practically at the very end.

When I got into Monaco, and the finish line came into view, I saw on the official clock that it was 2:44:and a couple seconds already, and I bolted into a sprint, but still didn’t make it until about five seconds after the time limit (because by sprint, I mean Alice at my fastest after having run 15 miles). HOWEVER, if you count my time starting from when I actually crossed the start line, which was not right at the very beginning of the race, then technically I did it in time. I got a medal and everything. I did it! I feel legitimately proud. And unless I can find a marathon that goes through four countries, I am going to say that this is going to be the peak of my running career.

Here are my pictures:

Monaco Run


And I stole some from my friends' facebooks, because I didn't take any pictures of myself running, obviously:



Tuesday, March 22, 2011

School

I've been meaning to write a post for awhile now about the French système scolaire. You'd think I would've done it before, at the beginning, when I was the most impressionable, but I guess I just never got around to it. And now, it's become one of those things that's kind of ballooned out of control, in the sense that there are simply too many differences I've noticed, too many particularités of French schooling -- and too many anecdotes I could use to illustrate it all -- that now, the task of trying to put everything into words seems impossible with even the most detailed and descriptive of blog posts. But I'm going to attempt here, at the very least, to make a start.

(As a side note: This same phenomenon has also happened with the Martiniquan men and my -- and every single other female assistants' here -- ridiculous and inappropriate encounters with them all. I'm not even going to attempt to convey the differences in male comportment and societal expectations in Martinique on this blog. I'll tell you all about it in person, if you want to know, when I'm back in our dear old country.)

I guess we'll start with the superficial. Here's a picture of one of my schools.


As you can see, it's a nice, new, multicolored building with an ocean view. It was only remodeled about four years ago. There's a library stocked with books, a nice salle informatique with Internet and a color printer, air conditioning, office supplies at my disposal when I want them (glue, paper, scissors, markers, whatever), toilets with paper and soap (imagine that!), and a proper salle des maîtres with warm coffee every morning. One of the teachers (from the métropole) told me that, compared to most other primary schools in Martinique (which are old and falling apart -- the other school I work at, just a few minutes down the road, is in this category), this is a five-star school.

I asked her if schools in France were as nice as this one. She said they were even nicer.

I'm not sure if this photo conveys it well, but this school, which is considered large for an elementary school (grades one through five) at more than two hundred students, is quite small (enrollment-wise and square-footage-wise) by American standards. As you can see, there's not even a playground. At récré (recess), students don't even play with balls or jump ropes. They kind of just run around and scream at each other.

Which brings me to my next point. What shocked me most during my first few days at school here was the noise level, or more specifically, the tolerance of it. The din during récré is enough to burst your eardrums, but even in the classroom, students are slightly more out of control than I remember their American counterparts being. I know that kids are kids, but still. Students here bavarder n'importe quoi, n'importe quand.
They talk over the teacher and their camarades all the time. I've seen the profs scold them sometimes, but it usually never works, so most of the time they're just forced to carry on like it's nothing. I find myself saying "J'attends le silence!" at countless times each day, but I've never actually heard true quiet in the classroom.

I'm not sure what the situation is like in France, but I met an American assistant from Guadeloupe a few months ago, and she told me it's the same there. She conjectured that it's because the only way the kids are called out on their bad behavior -- both at home and at school -- is through yelling (and occasionally being sent outside or to see the principal). Eventually, she said, it all must fall on deaf ears.

Which brings me to my next point, which is discipline. Many of the classrooms in primaire have a roster posted on the wall with each student's "points." Good points are earned by doing good things, and bad points are added for doing bad things. After a certain number of bad points, you start to lose classroom privileges. I'm sure there might be similar systems in America, too, but I'd never seen public lists like that, with students literally ranked against each other, out in the open for everyone to see.

And then there are the little things, the subtle differences I've picked up with respect to the way students are expected to behave in the classroom, and the student-teacher relationship in general. All teachers are addressed as Maîtresse or Maître, never by their family name. Every time the kids come in from récré, they have to line up in two lines, boys and girls, and only when they're bien rangé can they come inside. After they enter the classroom, they have to stand by their desks until the teacher tells them they can sit down. Every time an adult enters the classroom, they're also expected to stand up until they're told to sit. Sometimes teachers also yell at kids for not being in the position écolier, sitting up straight with their hands folded on top of their desks. When students want to be called on, they have to lever le doigt -- raise their hand with their pointer finger in the air. I suppose it's all just a bit more froid and distant than what we're accustomed to in America.

And don't even get me started on the ridiculous cursive script everyone writes in (a lot of them have trouble reading my handwriting because I write in print), the fact that every line and space of their penmanship must be measured and counted, every dictée must have a title. They always ask me if they should underline it or not, how many lines they should skip, and what color they should write in. I'm like, I don't care, it's up to you. But it seems they've always been told exactly what to do and how to act and how to write, all the time. It's all a little creativity-suppressing, if you ask me. My English friend who works in collège told me that she asked her students to invent and describe their own Carnival holiday, and all of them except a few simply described the traditional Carnival in Martinique. So, it seems, the tradition continues in middle school.

And then there's the fact that, if you calculate it out, French kids really aren't even in the classroom that much. Their school day is long, it's true -- it goes from 8 to 4:30 every day. But they have a two-and-a-half hour break for lunch in the afternoon, and two fifteen-minute récrés sprinkled in there as well. They don't have school at all on Wednesdays. And though they're in school from the beginning of September until the end of June, they have four 2 (or two-and-a-half!)-week breaks throughout the year -- Toussaints, Christmas, Carnival, and Easter.

Anyway. I'm not sure how to close this. This is only the tip of the iceberg, really, but all this stuff has been stewing in my head for six months and I had to get it out. I'm really curious as to the state of affairs in the métropole, though. And I might update this later, or in another post, when I've reflected some more. À plus...

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Saint Patrick's Day

Short post today. I know it's not really one of our major holidays, but I thought it should get at least some sort of recognition in our blog.

Today, I taught the kids all about Saint Patrick's Day. Most of the kids had never heard of it, and I'm not sure if I really réussir-ed in getting the point of the holiday across to them (i.e., that there is no point, really, except for s'amuser-ing), but I still enjoyed telling them about leprechauns and shamrocks and pots of gold. I haven't celebrated Saint Patrick's Day in years (don't people stop pinching each other after, like, second grade, roughly?), but all day I kept thinking of the leprechaun trap I had to make in first grade, in which I cut a hole in the top of a shoebox and covered it with green confetti streamers and fake jewels. I'd forgotten all about it until today. It's funny how this job is making me relive so much of my own time in primaire.

One of the CM2 teachers I work with asked me if everyone in the US celebrates Saint Patrick's Day, or whether it's only the Irish-Americans. This is the same teacher who, back in November, asked me if it's only the people with Pilgrim ancestors who observe Thanksgiving. I told her that Saint Patrick's day is a holiday that everyone can participate in, no matter their origines, and she seemed just a little surprised. I don't want to get into another discussion about France and America and attitudes towards foreigners, but suffice it to say that I gained an even deeper appreciation today for America and the way we've integrated the traditions of our immigrants into our own culture. I guess we're pretty unique in that way, non?

Monday, March 14, 2011

Today I bought four cookbooks

Okay okay I know that's excessive. But. I wanted one cookbook to have some good things to eat while I'm here, and there's this second-hand bookstore at the port right where I get off the boat, and everything's on sale, and I was looking at the cookbooks, and I was hungry...and I ended up buying four cookbooks and a stack of recipe postcards.

But listen. I am seriously excited about these books.

One is entitled Cuisine des Terroirs de France, a thin booklet with old-fashioned super condensed recipes from all the "lands of France".

Then this brightly colored spiral-bound cookbook called j'aime et je cuisine la figue caught my eye. It's a collection of recipes all incorporating figs, including for example "carpaccio de figues à la mozzarella" and "pain perdu brioché et figues panées au sésame". It was part of a series of cookbooks, all dedicated to one ingredient, like tomatoes, lemons, or tea. The tea one was tempting, but each recipe called for a different type of tea. This was the only ingredient where I could imagine myself being, "I love figs so much but I bought way too many, now what should I do?" Okay and the pictures are pretty.

And then I was just on a role. So I saw La Cuisine des Provençaux and I was like, what the heck, I'm proud of living en Provence, I might as well celebrate by mastering the cuisine of this region. I love it because there's an intro explaining the history and diversity of dishes from this area, and each recipe has little notes on where the plate comes from, or advice on pairings etc.

Finally, I was walking to the check-out counter, and was confronted with section of new arrivals. And what should one of them be but Boutiques Gourmandes à Paris. Yes, a book listing all the boulangers, épiciers, bouchers, pâtissiers, and fromagers of Paris by arrondissement, and how to find them, plus some recipes as well. How could I not? I mean, sure, I don't live in Paris, but I can dream, can't I?

I only spent 16 euro, and they're all skinny and not that heavy, so it's justifiable, right? Right?

Sunday, March 13, 2011

A Caribbean Carnival

When I was fourteen I competed in a gymnastics meet called the Caribbean Carnival. It was right around this time of year, in March, and there were Carnival masks and decorations and one of those duck pond games where you turn over the right duck to win a prize (in this case, a free leotard).

This week, I got to live the real thing. I spent five days in Trinidad, which hosts the world's largest Carnival outside of Rio, and got back to Martinique just in time for the Ash Wednesday festivities in Fort de France.

The Carnival celebrations in Trinidad open at 4AM on Carnival Monday with an all-night street party called J'Ouvert. There's soca music, dancing, and raucous merrymaking. Most importantly, everyone parades through the streets and splashes each other with paint made out of mud and oil. We were washing that stuff off our skin for days afterward.

The days that followed were a blur of glitzy costumes, feathers, masks, jewels, face paint, stilt walkers, steel drums, Trinidadian street food and blaringly loud (and annoyingly catchy) soca and calypso songs. The whole thing was an explosion of colors and sights and smells and sounds. A sensory overload. As our taxi driver in Trinidad told us, Carnival isn't so much an event as an experience. It's a hard thing to put into words.

At the Ash Wednesday celebrations in Fort de France, everyone was wearing black and white to mourn the end of Carnival. There were the same types of parading/yelling/drumming/noisemaking as in Trinidad, just on a lesser scale. At the end of the night, the burning of Vaval took place. In Martinique, Vaval is the name of the mascot of Carnival, but its identity changes every year. It's supposed to be some kind of personnage or entity to be mocked, usually a celebrity or political figure. This year, however, Vaval was Facebook, or "Fésbouk" -- a play on words, since the latter spelling means the butt of a goat in Creole.

When Vaval was burned, Carnival was officially over, and everyone started singing Auld Lang Syne in French.

Some photos here.

I've been to some crazy parades in my day (Pride in San Francisco, anyone? Or Bay to Breakers?), but never a prolonged, week-long celebration -- a national holiday, really -- devoted to wearing ridiculously chintzy costumes and letting loose in the street. I thought it was great. We don't have anything like that in America. People take themselves too seriously for that.

Throughout the week, I thought periodically of that gymnastics meet so many years ago, and the fourteen-year-old I once was. I can't remember the particulars of the competition, really, but I still have the leotard I got -- coincidentally, it was all black and white, just like the Ash Wednesday paraders in Fort de France. Back then, I never would have imagined I'd get to experience a real Caribbean Carnival one day. It's strange to think how much has changed since then, isn't it? Thank God I still don't have the blinders I wore when I was a freshman, when my whole world was gymnastics and school and my appearance, or whatever other minutiae I worried about as a teenager. And who knows what eye-opening, perspective-altering adventures are yet to come?

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Impressions of America

I’ve been doing a cute lesson on America and stereotypes since I just got back from the States and have pictures to show. But first I make them list the images they think of when they think of America (which, incidentally, is a difficult sentence to construct in French). Here’s a couple of lists from different classes:

CM1
  • Brooklyn Bridge
  • Statue of Liberty
  • Taxis
  • The flag
  • Cars
  • Tall buildings
  • Stores
  • Skyscrapers
  • Alice’s house
  • Money (Dollars)
  • Schools
  • Police
  • Boutiques
  • Eagle
  • Pidgeons
  • Barack Obama
  • Golden Gate Bridge
  • The city
  • People
  • Hotels
  • Restaurants
  • Courts
  • Hip Hop
  • Children
  • The NBA
  • Factories
  • Soccer
  • Parks
  • The beach
  • Manhattan
  • Central Park
  • Billboards
  • Football
  • Gangs
  • Times Square
  • Stars
  • Mailmen
  • Will Smith
  • Movies
  • Miami
  • California
  • Angelina Jolie
  • Pools

CM2
  • Statue of Liberty
  • Justin Bieber
  • Skyscrapers
  • Bacon
  • Baseball
  • Lady Gaga
  • Basketball
  • Paris Hilton
  • Limousines
  • Disneyland
  • The Golden Gate Bridge
  • Beyoncé
  • Ferries
  • Chicago
  • Springfield
  • Subways
  • Taxies
  • The Lakers
  • Hotels
  • Michael Jackson
  • Jay-Z
  • Clubs

CE2
  • Obama
  • Restaurants
  • Hotels
  • Pools
  • The Poor
  • The Beach
  • Place de la Liberté (which is a square in Toulon, but of course they meant the Statue of Liberty)
  • Houses
  • Apartments

Dunno about that last list, but they were younger kids I guess. I also had them make collages of American images, and there were a lot of city lights, Obamas, and at least one cowboy. I was kind of surprised. For some reason I think I was expecting more negative stereotypes, fat Americans, warmongers, etc. Instead, they have a pretty glamorous view of life in the States. America looks like New York, filled with skyscrapers, celebrities, luxury, and power.

Then I showed them pictures from my break, framing it as, everyday life for many Americans who don’t live in New York. They were still very impressed though, especially by the pretty shots of Stanford and the hot dog I ate at the movies.

Finally I showed them a clip from Anastasia, the musical number entitled “Paris Holds the Key to Your Heart”, to give them an idea of what American stereotypes of French people are. The clip has sparkling Eiffel Towers, sailors in striped shirts and berets, flirtatious can-can dancers, and impressionist artists. I found it rigolo, and hopefully they found it a little eye-opening too.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Ireland and its Vocab

Hello blog world.

I think I deserve a shameful award for my lack of updates to the blog - though I must admit that I keep regular photo albums with lots of detail AND my supposedly nice Mac does NOT let me successfully post photos to this blog!

Anyway, over the February vacation, one of my destinations was Ireland and I must share with all of you some of the new vocabulary I learned:

"Grand" - used for fine or good - "I'm grand." "That's grand." The way Americans use "good" or the British use "brilliant."

"Shifting" - the Irish version of American "hooking up," with the same amount of flexibility, i.e. a kiss to all the way.

"Craic" (pronounced crack) - can be used in several ways - "What's the craic?" means "How are you? What's the 411?" and "Good craic" means to have a good time or an event was "good craic" because it was fun and exciting.

"Right" - said often at the end of sentences

"Afters" - dessert

If you want a rather in-depth list of Irish slang, check out this website.